Tom Charron came to town with 80 pounds of mesquite charcoal, two smokehouse cookers on a trailer and a 250-pound whole hog complete with head, hooves, snout, ears and tail. The Newcastle, Wyo., caterer promised a whole hog roast with great taste and a unique presentation.
At 8 a.m. on the day of the VFW Rushmore Post 1273's event, Charron put his processed porker onto a rack, fired up the mesquite coals and apple wood, then closed the lid to fill the chamber with smoke. For the next eight hours, the hog's skin developed a golden brown crust while the meat cooked and developed a smoky richness.
"I'll pull it off at 4 p.m. It's so hot that it will continue to cook. We'll carry it in here, set it up on a table then garnish it with greens, strawberries, apples, oranges and pineapple. It's really quite a sight," Charron said.
Having worked in the food service business for 30 years, Charron says the key element to a good hog roast is temperature.
"You have to control your heat and temperature," he said.
Different types of cookers use different fuels, such as charcoal wood pieces or gas and propane, to reach those temperatures.
"They're totally different. Each has a lot of do's and don'ts," Charron said.
The slow cooking method infuses the meat with the smoky flavors of mesquite and sweet apple even as it hardens the skin into a thick crust. The crust will seal in the juices and create a tender meat that when finished will fall off the bone.
"You smoke meats in 200-degree heat. Over that (temperature) and it will leave a bitter taste," Charron said.
To avoid that disaster, Charron constantly scrutinizes and fusses with his temperature gauges while checking the progress of the meat.
"We try to keep it in that 150- to 200-degree area," he said.
But he also likes to open up the smoky chamber for spectators who can't resist looking at this unusual presentation.
"It's a show all day long. That's the fun of it," Charron said.
People constantly are drawn to this centuries-old tradition of roasting pork, complete with an apple-stuffed mouth.
"They get a kick out watching us do this. They see the whole process," he said.
While only 40 percent of the 250-pound pig will produce something edible, people do have the opportunity to eat the snout, jowls, ears and tail. Charron especially likes asking young children to try something that they aren't normally used to eating.
"I'll ask if they want some of the ear or snout," he said with a laugh.
Pork also has white and dark meat.
"I'll be sure to ask what kind of meat they like," he said when slicing into the hog.
He said that whole-hog feeds are something out of the past. They are labor- and time- intensive, which adds up to high-end expenses.
"You just don't see them very often anymore," Charron added.
Yet Charron doesn't mind the work, even when he doesn't see much of a profit margin, because it only adds to the catering business' fan base. "People love our food," he said.
At the recent VFW hog roast, Charron served the pork as an entree or sandwich with sides of five-bean baked beans, coleslaw and a dessert. Included in the meal were the caterer's homemade raspberry horseradish sauce, sweet barbecue sauce and honey mustard sauce.
"We're famous for our sauces that go with it," he said.
Last year, people wound around the interior dining room and out into the street. This year, Charron expected to feed as many as 200 to 250 people before the evening was over.
Charron's wife, Polly, said that when they married 13 years ago, they made a deal.
"He would do all the cooking and I would clean up," she said.
Asked if he used a lot of utensils, she snorted and laughed.
"He uses every pan and spoon in the house," she said.
He grinned. "It's true."
Like this recipe? Let the cook know
Tom Charron wants input from people who follow his recipes. While willing to share a favorite recipe here, Charron ultimately wants people to talk to him about the dish. He hasn't put in the amount of chicken breasts, tortillas, cheese or spices to use because it is based on individual tastes and preference. If you have questions, call 645-1440.
Smothered Chicken Burrito with Green Chili Sour Cream Sauce
Boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1 gallon chicken broth
10-12 ounces green chilies, diced
1 onion, chopped
4-5 fresh jalapenos, diced
1 bunch fresh cilantro, chopped
2 tablespoons cumin
Cornstarch
2 (8-ounce) cartons sour cream
Flour tortillas
Chili powder
Cumin
Garlic
Mexican cheese mix
Pico de gallo
Sauce: Over medium heat in a large sauce pan, mix chicken broth, green chilies, onion, jalapenos, cilantro and cumin. Bring to a simmer and simmer for 1 hour. Lightly thicken with cornstarch. When finished, remove from heat. Then mix in sour cream at the end.
Burrito: Lightly season chicken breast with chili powder, cumin and garlic. Charbroil, grill or pan fry chicken breast until done and juices run clear. Cut chicken breasts into fajita size pieces and mix three parts chicken to one part Mexican cheese mix. Spoon into tortilla and wrap into burrito. Place burritos seam side down into casserole type dish.
Topping: Smother burritos with sour cream sauce. Top with Mexican cheese mix and pico de gallo. Bake in moderate oven to melt cheese. You can serve immediately or you can hold in 180-degree oven for a couple hours.
- Journal staff
