The birds are not exactly standing in line at the birdbaths, but the abundance of them on and around the water basins suggests their appreciation for water for survival.

Hmmmm. "Water for survival." That's a phrase we've been hearing a lot. And fortunately and finally, articles in the better gardening magazine are addressing wise water use. Here are some recent examples:

The August issue of Garden Gate magazine (see Resources list at the end of this article) had an excellent article on the wise, and successful, use of soaker hoses.

The important points are these:

- There are several grades of soakers. Buy the most heavy-duty soaker you can find. Because water pressure reduces in long soakers, consider using a splitter, an attachment that you screw onto the faucet that creates multiple outlets - much like a multiple plug. This allows you to attach a regular hose (or several) to reach the bed that needs water. Then attach a short soaker to zigzag amongst the plants.

- Soakers work most effectively on level surfaces and in short lengths (25 feet).

- Mulch and water the garden first. Soakers need to be within an inch of young plants, two inches or so from mature plants. Lightly cover the soaker with mulch to help hold the moisture and protect the soaker from the sun.

- As with any system, check it regularly to be certain that it is working.

- Lift and clean the hose in the fall and store it in a large, flat coil. Hanging it is not recommended.

The July-August edition of The American Gardener, the magazine of the American Horticultural Association, contained a small article about weed-busting groundcovers. For some time, many of us have been promoting "living mulch" as a strategy to improve soil, retain soil moisture and discourage weeds.

Researchers at Cornell University have just finished a five-year study and announced, not surprisingly, "the most successful groundcovers exhibited the ability to establish rapidly, overwinter in USDA Zones (cold zones) 5-7, and form a dense canopy of foliage that reduces light penetration at the soil surface, thereby suppressing weed germination." Perhaps in another five years they will determine that living mulch also keeps soils moist and cool and supports healthy soil life.

The following plants, some of which they cited, are excellent for living mulch choices.

- Walker's Low catmint can be planted about 3 feet apart and mulched well between plants. The plants will fill the bed with lovely blue spikes of flowers and blue-gray foliage. They must be cut back to the basal leaves in early July. The mulch between the plants will continue to control weeds as the plants prepare for a second, late-season bloom. This plant might be a bit large as living mulch in a mixed bed, but it is stunning in a larger area. In the fall, plant bulbs between the plants. The bulbs will bloom and die back before much growth has started in the catmint in the spring.

- The low, spreading sedums are superior living groundcovers. They bloom in red, pink, yellow and white. Their roots are so shallow they are no threat to perennials or shrubs and they are virtually disease-free, easy to maintain and offer excellent shelter for beneficial insects.

- There are some very small, hybrid mini daylilies on the local market that are also very effective as groundcover. Campanula "Blue Clips" is lovely, low and spreads slowly. Alpine strawberries are another option. Penstemon pygmaeus hirsutis and penstemon pinifolius, both creepers and spreaders, are also attractive. There are a number of very short perennial dianthus varieties that make a lovely, colorful mat and can be cleaned and cut back. If all else fails, good old Virginia creeper will make a dense mat in an area where it has no opportunity to climb. Cut back as necessary to promote dense leafing and enjoy the fall colors and the birds going mad for the fall fruits.

We have one garden that produces a carpet of tiny oxalis along the path and amongst the perennials. At first, prodded by some irrational need to be "tidy," I waged war on the oxalis. When I realized that I could spend every waking moment pulling, spraying and digging them, I gave up. I have observed that the presence of oxalis does not challenge the perennials at all. The little plants are easy to pull when the spirit moves me, and (ta da!) they shade the soil to prevent other weeds from germinating and they keep the soil cool and moist. We now have a compromise - the oxalis and I - because they are not now and never have been a threat to anything except my foolish sense of "tidy."

Ponder changes that you could make in the yard and garden to go green. Educate yourself on appropriate plants and eco-tools and strategies. Shop locally. This is common sense. We've all got it.

Resources

- Garden Gate magazine, P.O. Box 842, Des Moines, IA 50304-9961, 1-800-341-4759, www.gardengate.com.

- The American Horticultural Society Magazine, The American Gardener, 7931 E. Boulevard Drive, Alexandria, VA 22308, call: 1-703-768-5700 or toll-free: 1-800-777-7931, or fax: 1-703-768-8700 or publications fax: 1-703-768-7533.

The Internet has excellent resources to help us "go green." To check out, go to:

- www.composters.com - This site has an abundance of eco-tools

- www.nwf.org/gardeners guide - This site, The National Wildlife Federation, has excellent links, articles and tips

- www.sprinklerware house.com - Please, please shop our local stores first for drip irrigation supplies. Sites like this, however, provide an excellent education to help the homeowner make appropriate choices. Ask our local stores what options they have to special order materials for you.

Cathie Draine is a member of the South Dakota State University Co-operative Extension Master Gardeners and the Garden Writers' Association. She lives and gardens in Black Hawk. She may be contacted at cathiedraine@rap.midco.net.